Rain rain…
Yes we have walked in rain and cold the past two days, but I hear you have the same in Canada. I won’t complain. It is clear to us now why Galicia is so lush and green.
We are now within 100 km of Santiago de Compostela and we are meeting many new pilgrims. To receive recognition for completing a Camino, one must walk 100 km and get their credentials stamped twice a day. Today we met an extended Mexican family of six with day packs, clear plastic ponchos, and a dolly piled 4’ high with suitcases. We assumed they were waiting for 101 km Albergue in Baamonde to open but another pilgrim, Esther, met them on the trail an hour later pushing the dolly of suitcases. I wish I would have taken their portraits.
The trail in some places was covered with water today, slippery and muddy. I took my first fall of my Camino. The only thing hurt was my pride. My shoes have over 900 km on them and not much tread left. Usually I retire a pair of hiking shoes after 700 km. They will get me to Santiago, but that will be the end for them. Mark bought glue today to extend the life of his shoes.
Veronica is from Poughkeepsie, New York, USA, but now lives in Barcelona. She started her Camino in Luarca. Blisters were a problem early on, but they are getting better. She left the US in her early 20’s to travel and serve in the Peace Corps, and has never looked back. Her roots are now firmly in Barcelona.
Enrique is from Spain. He has walked seven Caminos. We have stayed at the same albergues as Enrique for the last four nights.
Tonight we are at a small village called Parga, at Parga Natura Alojniento Hostel, a lovingly renovated old building. It is a very comfortable space to gather. For 14 euros each we will eat here as well. Private albergues and hostels are more modern and more expensive the closer we get to Santiago. We have, however, appreciated the finer facilities after a month of varied conditions. Last night was spent in a public albergue. Clean, spacious, accommodating 45 pilgrims, but no frills and no human empathy. The lack of human touch that we have come to crave was missing. A humble facility that makes you feel at home beats a cheap modern facility every time. Long live Donativos. 83 km to Santiago.