Okay, 235 km to go and we have walked through three regions: Basque, Cantabria, and Asturias. We are two days from Galicia but I must confess, Asturias has stolen my heart. The cliffs are magestic, the small villages are colourful and reminiscent of Canada’s east coast, the pathways are varied with manageable ups and downs, the port towns are breathtaking, and the people are warm.
Today we approached the port town of Luarca from above, walked down into the town centre, and climbed back out on a steep switchback road. The rock here is thin like slate so building facades look different from elsewhere. Roofs here have slate shingles instead of tiles. The fields are transitioning from pastures to grains. And the wind is ever present.
Tonight we are staying at La Casa Del Peregrinos, a donativo albergue, just outside of Otur. Mercedes, a local nurse and pilgrim, built her home purposely to house 10 pilgrims. She is open when her shifts at the hospital don’t conflict with hosting. She loves the energy and diversity pilgrims bring into her life. She prepared for us a salad, a noodle soup, and a roasting pan of vegetables and meats. For dessert we ate homemade yogurt with local honey.
I think maybe my privileged experience with local people has helped draw me to Asturias. I will definitely visit Asturias again.
Helga is from Germany. She started her camino this year in Gijon. This is her third section and hopefully she will reach Santiago.
Inga and Dominik are from Lithuania. They started in Irun on April 1, three days after Mark and I. Inga likes to walk long slow days. Dominik, however, likes long fast days. He walked Camino Frances last year in only 20 days.
Mercedes runs Albergue Casa de Peregrinos in her home in Otur when she doesn’t have a nursing shift at the local hospital. She built her house specifically to welcome pilgrims.