The walk out of Zubiri this morning was scenic. We crossed back over an old bridge and followed a mountain fed river for most of the way. A few fisherman were casting for trout. We passed horses, lush pastures and only two towns. The second town’s first bar had live Spanish guitar music playing so we broke the second bar rule and stopped for a second breakfast of tortilla, coffee, and Kas Limon. Each place makes their tortilla a little differently. This bar offered traditional, spinach, and zucchini tortillas. I had a slice of zucchini tortilla. It was an excellent choice. If you have not experienced tortilla, make your way to Sails Cafe on Penetanguishene’s Main Street and try a slice. It is very authentic.
Mark is from Barrie, Ontario in Canada. He and I have been canoe tripping and backpacking for 30 years. This was our second Camino adventure together, but for him it was not over. He decided to continue on to Santiago, and did so in about 27 days.
After second breakfast we started to climb. In the distance we could see the edge of Pamplona and its neighbouring towns. Pamplona sits in the middle of a flat valley area, surrounded by towns and industry all fused together. We descended once more, crossed the river yet again, and started about 4 km of walking through urban area. Nearing Pamplona, we crossed the river one final time on a 12th century bridge and skirted the citadel’s impressive walls. We climbed and passed through two gates entering the old city with narrow roads and colourful five story buildings.
Before finding our albergue, Mark K led us to Camino Tek, an outdoor gear store of sorts in the hopes of finding replacement shoes for his final 700 km of the Camino Frances. It was Labour Day in Spain so hardly any stores were open. What do you know? Camino Tek was open and they had a pair of Hoka Speedgoats in Mark’s size. He’s all set now to continue on.
Our albergue is in an 18th century seminary. It does not take reservations so when we arrived at shortly past noon, there was a line. This is what is referred to as the bed race on Camino Frances. Private albergues take reservations and fill days early. Public albergues are large and don’t take reservations. Those worried about finding accommodations get up early and rush to be at the doors of the public albergues for opening. We got bunks 18-20. People were still arriving at 7:30 pm and getting beds so the early risers need to chill a little. I’m sure in the peak season the bed race is a real issue.
The three of us headed out with Aude, a 28 yr old orthopedic nurse from Paris who has become part of our Chemin family, to find lunch and a pitcher of Sangria, something Mark D has been talking about for days. We ate in the public square at Cafe Iruna, one of Hemmingway’s haunts. I had duck confit – a duck leg with potatoes. It was very good. The Sangria, the first I’ve tasted, was also good.
Around 7 pm, the Marks and I headed out for Kebabs. The streets here were alive with locals enjoying the holiday. Families with children and dogs are gathered in the central square, young folk are congregating on a few other streets, sitting on the ground with friends, drinking beer. As we headed back to the albergue, the party atmosphere just seemed to be growing.
And so, tomorrow Mark K continues on the Way. He’ll be without Mark D and I but he certainly won’t be alone. Claude, Leo, Victor, and Aude are all headed for Santiago so he’s in good company.
Mark D and I are finished our Camino, for now. According to the guidebooks, we have walked approximately 810 kms. We will stay in Pamplona tomorrow and explore. On Saturday we will take a bus to the coastal city of Bilbao and spend the day. On Sunday we will fly from Bilbao to Porto, Portugal, and on Monday we will fly home.