Mark D says everyday on the Chemin and now the Camino feels like Christmas morning, with France and now Spain opening up new surprises, discoveries, and friendships. After yesterday’s epic climb over Napoleon’s Pass and stay at a giant albergue, it feels more like Boxing Day to me. It was a good day, don’t get me wrong, but hard to compare to yesterday.
The walk out of Roncesvalles was flat for quite a distance on a faux-stone cement sidewalk. We passed through a few small villages but always had peregrinos in sight. In one village we stopped at the third bar, Juan Bar, for tortillas and Kas Limon, a lemon soda Mark K and I developed an addiction for last year. An American I met on the Inglis Camino two years ago told me to always stop at the second bar. I’m not sure the rationale, but I have generally stuck to that policy. Walking into the village this morning, we passed a sign for a bar that made it clear, they were the second bar. We laughed and passed the first bar. The joke was on us as the second bar was not open yet. We pushed on and ended up at Juan Bar where the tortillas were good and the Kas Limon cold.
The “Yellow Brick Road” paved trail ended and we had to dance around a little Spanish mud, not slippery or sticky. We had to climb, follow a ridge line, and eventually descend into Zubiri, our home for the night. We arrived at 11:20 am. It was a short 20 km day. The first few stages of Camino Frances are shorter to allow unprepared peregrinos a chance to improve fitness and figure out their gear and shoes. There are way too many large packs on the new peregrinos. I hope many of them figure out the benefits of either using a luggage service (donkey service), or sending the excess gear home in the mail.
Mother and son, Bonnie and Thomas, originally from Zurich, Ontario are on day two of their Camino Frances. Day one was a challenge, but they have lots of time and are taking it slow.
Jen Is from Peterborough, Ontario in Canada. She is having a grand adventure in Spain with her friend Dana.
Dana Is from Peterborough, Ontario in Canada. She is having a grand adventure in Spain with her friend Jen. Dana and Jen kept pace pretty well with Mark K all the way to Santiago.
We checked into our Albergue at 1 pm after sharing a big bottle of Kas Limon and sandwiches in the town square. We spent the afternoon napping and reading.
This evening we were surprised by the food at a bar in the lobby of a sports complex. There is slim pickings here for restaurants and we didn’t book ahead. This place had a Menu del Dia with lots of options. The Marks had spaghetti as a starter and I had a large salad. For a main course Mark D had chicken wings and fries while Mark K and I had entrecôte boeuf and fries. I had flan for dessert. Bread and wine were included for 17.50 euros each. A good deal! We were joined by four of our usual French friends.
So maybe not Christmas for me, but still a great day. Tomorrow will be short like today, and will be the last walking day for Mark D and I. We will reach Pamplona and stay for two days. Tomorrow is Labour Day in Spain so we are expecting most things to be closed. We do not have reservations for accommodations and are counting on space in the big public albergue in Pamplona. Wish us luck.