It did not rain today!
This morning a heavy mist hung in the valley and on the hills, concealing the views of mountains we expected. But as the morning progressed, the mist burned off in the sun and we were treated to some splendid vistas.
Guillaume is the host at Hego Alde Maison, the Gite where we stayed. Hego Alde means South Side in Basque. A storm had recently taken down some big trees on his property and he wanted his portrait in front of the piles of wood he chopped.
Aude is from Paris. She comes from a family of pilgrims. Her oldest brother walked from Paris to Jerusalem on his honeymoon. Aude is an orthopedic surgery nurse on a two month leave, walking to Finisterre.
Pauline lives in Wageningen, where the cease fire for WWII was signed. She loves languages and speaks many. She will walk to Pamplona this year, another of many sections.
Any hopes for a mud free entry into Saint Jean Pied de Port were dashed early. Slippery mud, long wet grass, rock hopping, and cow patty dodging were all on the menu. That section didn’t last long, but once you’re wet, you’re wet.
We were well distracted by the beauty of the area and the unique architecture of the Basque people. Those who were along for my journey last year will remember descriptions from Spanish Basque Country. The Spanish Basque area is known for industry and fishing. The French Basque area is very agricultural. Almost all buildings are white and immaculately kept.
Mark K and I held back today to let giddy Mark D savour the completion of his first Camino. Entering Saint Jean Pied de Port is not like entering Santiago, but special in its own way. It is an old walled city you enter through a gate below the citadel. The main road in the walled city is lined with Gites, outdoor gear shops, fine art stores, and souvenir stands. There are tourists mixed in with pilgrims waiting to begin the Camino Frances, and of course, those of us who just finished the Chemin de Compostelle. We are the ones with muddy pant legs and beat up shoes.
Mark is from Canada and has been my colleague and friend for almost 30 years. This was his first Camino but I’m pretty sure, not his last.
We found are Gite and dropped off our packs. We met up with our friends: Claude, Jean-Francois, Victor, Leo, and Harvey; and walked to a nice restaurant for a celebratory lunch. Pictures were exchanged and wine was shared. Two friends would be leaving at this point so it was goodbye. The rest of us would continue on to at least Pamplona.
Leo is from France. We have been walking with and near Leo since starting in Le Puy. He suffered from bad blisters early on but has come on strong. In the portrait he is sporting his new walking stick. His original stick was a six foot branch, but the wear and tear of the path wore it down to three feet. This stick has a metal tip, and will take him all the way to Finisterre.
Erika, from Paris, started in Le Puy on April 2. She has given herself 50 days to go as far as she can, but must then return to work. She recently passed the bar exam and is starting a promising career, but she said she is most proud of what she has accomplished on the Chemin so far.
Oliver is from Germany and has been walking Caminos for years. He carries and plays the didgeridoo and a harmonica wherever he goes. He happily allowed me to photograph him but did not take my card as he does not have a phone or any desire to explore the internet.
We wandered and people watched into the late afternoon. The Marks and I had a light dinner of paninis and were in bed before sunset. We would have to rise early tomorrow for two reasons: it will be warm and sunny so we want to cover some distance in the cooler time; and we will be climbing Napoleon’s Pass, over 1000 m to Roncesvalles, our next destination.
It was a great day.