Breakfast today was included at our albergue/hotel. I ordered a Cola Cao (hot chocolate) and
a fried chicken fillet on a baguette with tomato and lettuce. Today was forecast to reach 27
degrees so we walked with urgency this morning. The more kms we covered in the cooler
temperature, the better for these two Canadians not yet acclimatized to heat. We made it half
13 kms before stopping at a bar for Coca Zeros. From then on, we walked from bar to bar, to
hide from the sun and drink another soda. I think we stoped three or four times in the next 14
kms. It’s all a blur. Yes many other pilgrims are drinking beer at these stops, it is cheaper than
pop, but they must be more accustomed to the heat.
We reached a spot where the trail splits. Many pilgrims take the alternate Hospitales route for
a better view. Guidebooks warn pilgrims to avoid the route in poor weather and fog. Fog was
expected.
We were not interested in the alternate route, but the bench at the decision point caught our
attention. A carved Yoda was holding a walking stick and a hand written note. Looking closer
we recognized it was left by Anton who was half a day ahead of us. He’d found a new walking
stick along the way and had written a requiem to the stick he was leaving behind after walking
with it for two weeks.
We are at a Donativo albergue tonight. Stef, from the Netherlands operates the Polagrino in
Pola de Allande with the assistance of volunteers. Currently Tara, a young German is staying
and helping. It is almost dinner time. Mark and I have been looking forward to this. Sharing a
meal with fellow pilgrims, known and unknown is always a highlight.
Stef and Tess
Stef is from the Netherlands and has been operating Albergue Polagrino for five years. He
bought the building in 2020 just as COVID shut everything down. He spent a year patiently
renovating and opened when he could. The dog, Tess, is the pet of friends staying with him
for a few days.
Annie
Annie is an independent pilgrim from Germany. She too walked Camino San Salvador prior to
starting Camino Primitivo. She has walked seven caminos and is trying to interest her
boyfriend in long walks.
Tara
Tara is from Germany. She is one of two volunteers spending time helping operate the
albergue. She spent six months in Scotland staying in hostels improving her English. Now she
is improving her Spanish. She finds helping pilgrims profound.
Annette and Wil
Annette and Wil are old friends of Stef, the albergue owner. Tess is their dog. They are from
the Netherlands and have been travelling on vacation for the past five months, living in their
small RV. Behind their RV they pull a horse trailer with three donkeys. They find small patches
of public grass, fence it off with wire, and graze the donkeys overnight. Two of the donkeys
are rescued from Asturias, Spain, so they have brought them on a vacation home.