Day one of the Camino Primitivo already feels different from the San Salvador. It started the
same with Mark and I searching out an open cafe for breakfast, but there is a new cast of
characters in town. Anton, a young enthusiastic Dane joined us for breakfast and he walked
with us the rest of the day. Conversation came easy as the kms passed. We learned many
interesting things: Danes don’t consider themselves friendly compared to other nationalities,
and that Norwegians, Swedes, and Danes can all understand each other, but the two others
think Danes sound like they are talking with potatoes in their mouths. The Danes invented
Handball, and all the beautiful Danish women are a result of the selective abduction of
beautiful women from the British Isles by the Vikings in the past.
Anton
Anton is from Denmark and is a student of Anthropology. He walked all but 70 km of the
Camino Frances before meeting us on the Camino Primitivo. He wasn’t ready to join the
larger crowds close to Santiago so he took a bus to Lugo and another to Oviedo to start the
Primitivo. His girlfriend, Esther, is currently walking the Camino Portuguese from Porto and
will arrive in Santiago around the same time as us. They plan to walk to Finisterre, the end of
the earth, from Santiago.
Nathan
Nathan, a young doctor from the Netherlands joined us at a late morning break and stayed
with us for the day. He had specialized in Global Health at medical school and spent time
practising in Tanzania. He is currently adding Family Health to his specialties. This is his first
camino, but judging from his enthusiasm, probably not his last. He also plans to walk to
Finisterre.
We walked 25 km to Grado and secured the final four beds in Donativo Albergue de
Peregrinos Villa de Grado, our first donativo of this camino. For those new to caminos,
albergues can be municipal – inexpensive, unreservable, and simple. They can be private –
reservable, provide cotton sheets and towels, and be slightly more expensive. And they can
be donativo – paid by donation, intimate, and usually offering meals. We really like donativo
experiences. Just to be clear, donativos are not meant to be free or cheap. The hosts offer a
communal dinner, breakfast, laundry services, and a personalized experience. Pilgrims
wanting the personal experience should give handsomely in order that the donativos can
continue.
Alex and Natalia
Alex and Natalia are from Argentina. They are volunteering as hospitaleros or albergue hosts
for two weeks at the Donativo Albergue de Peregrinos Villa de Grado. They are past pilgrims
who have chosen to give back on this European holiday.
Gabriel
Gabriel is from Budapest, Hungary. He is also walking the Primitivo, but he recognized Mark
and me from two years ago when we all stayed at the same albergue, Albergue Casa
Caminah in Muraz de Nalon, while walking the Camino Del Norte. It is a small world.
Joe
Joe is from Tennessee, USA and is retired from the military. He walked Camino Frances
previously. This time he started on the Del Norte but switched to the Primitivo hoping to find
more albergues open. He did start before April 1, the unofficial opening date for most
albergues. Joe walks fast and long so we quickly lost track of him.
Tonight Anton made pasta with a light lemon sauce for five of us. The Primitivo is starting off
well.