Mark and I were out of our albergue by 8 am and back to the cathedral. We then turned to the
right and followed our Portuguese Camino Apps. I think the Portuguese Way into Santiago is
prettier than the Frances way. This section of town includes a big park overlooking the
cathedral, newer apartments, and the university. Before long we were off the main road and
passing through quiet streets and paths.
The Portuguese is a popular way. I would estimate over 200 pilgrims passed us today, many
puzzling why we were walking the wrong way. We were stopped about 10 times by people
concerned about our direction. One older local woman set down her wheel barrow and
questioned us in Spanish. “Santiago?” Mark’s answer was, “No… Leon, Oviedo, Santiago,
now Porto.” She continued to talk but we had no idea what she said, though she did look
impressed. It is an interesting experience walking against the flow.
We greeted and were greeted by many. “Buen Camino” has been replaced with “Bom
Camino” because this trail started in Portugal. I played a game in my head to identify the
nationalities of the pilgrims before they reached us. There were many Irish women this
morning, lots of Spanish, some Americans, and three Canadians we identified by maple
leaves on hats and packs – a father and son from Kamloops, BC and a gentleman our age
from Manitoba. Elbows up!
Back in the day, when pilgrims reached the end of their pilgrimages to Santiago from home,
they had to turn around and walk home if they hadn’t discovered a better option along the
way. Today we hop on planes, trains, and automobiles to quickly return home. The return
does feel different. It was a challenge at times to find our way as the markers are all situated
for going the other direction. There were blue arrows, especially as we neared Padron. I’m
guessing some pilgrims walk to Padron because it is said that the remains of St. James
arrived by boat to Padron originally. I have learned to look at the orientation of the markers
and walk in the direction they face. We mostly rely on Mark’s Buen Camino app, or wait to see
a pilgrim coming our way. The Camino provides.
We went looking for dinner and came upon a Cantrina Bar, same name as the Mexican
restaurant we ate at in Pedrouzo after Mark and Nathan’s spa day. The owner explained that
he’s Mexican and works hard. He has three locations: one on the Frances, one on the
Portuguese, and one on the Inglis. It seems to be going well for him. We wished him success
as we shared our feast of salad, nachos, a burrito, and chicken tiki. It will be an early night for
us tonight. We can’t keep up with the Spanish late night drinks, tapas, and seafood feasts.
We’re getting old.