We have arrived! 18 days after leaving Leon, Spain, Mark and I walked into Santiago de
Compostela and stood in the square in front of the cathedral. It was fun to watch Nathan
experience it for the first time. For most of the day, pilgrims arrive here, stand and stare up at
the steeples, take a selfie or two, and then linger. Some just sit in the middle of the square
and some choose to rest against the pillars at the back of the square. Some are elated and
some cry. If you wait long enough, someone you know may arrive and you can share their
moment.
Daniel and Barbara
Daniel and Barbara are from Spain. We met them at several albergues along the way, but I
was never able to take their portrait. Here they are celebrating in front of the cathedral in
Santiago. They have walked many caminos.
Anouk and Giona
Anouk and Giona are pilgrims from Switzerland. They also walked the Primitivo. Anouk is a
special education teacher and Giona works for an NGO promoting cycling in Swiss cities.
When you leave the square, every pilgrim knows their journey is over. That can be
overwhelming. I just thought that this may be my last time here for a while, until friends not yet
retired can join me. Nathan, Mark, and I went to the office and received our credentials,
confirming our accomplishment. On the Latin document I am called Jacobum, and Mark
became Markum.
We are staying at The Last Stamp, an albergue in the heart of the old city where I have
stayed three times before. I went for a stroll or an amble, a word Mark taught Nathan, and
visited some familiar places. I sat down in the Cafe Casino, which appears to be unchanged
since 1873 when it first opened. I ordered a “chocolate con churros,” a decadent treat I first
experienced two years ago. A warm cup of melted chocolate and four churros for dipping. The
chocolate soaks in and drips slowly. After four churros I still had a quarter cup of chocolate.
Out came the spoon. It cost 6 Euros and will be the last one I have in Santiago until my next
visit. It was so worth it.
Tonight we will meet with 8 pilgrims we know from the Primitivo for a pilgrim’s meal at Casa
Manolo, a restaurant serving traditional Galician food. They don’t take reservations but
accommodate larger groups of pilgrims. It will be good to celebrate with everyone before we
go our separate ways. In a way, this place feels familiar, like a worn pair of comfortable shoes.
I think it does for many.