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Camino del Norte Portraits: April 9, 2024

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Today was a very good day. Mark and I rode the train one stop from Boo de Pielagos to Bogro with about six other pilgrims from last evening’s albergue. It is always good to chat with our fellow travellers. The train is a necessary part of this Camino as there is no other legal way to cross the river splitting the route. After the train ride, we and the pilgrims began our walk at our own paces, slowly spreading out along the route.

Justin and his mother Christine are from a suburb of Paris, France. Christine has walked from the centre of France to here in stages over several years. They are on the Camino for nine days this year, starting from Portugalette. The portrait was taken at the train station in Boo de Pielagos. 

Jay is from Vancouver, Canada. He is walking the Camino with his friend John. They started in Bilbao. 

John is also from Vancouver, Canada. He and Jay are both hoping to reach Santiago by the end of April.

The “way” as the Camino is often called, offers route choices. Some for bike travel, some for scenic detours, and some to avoid heavy trafficked roads. Today Mark and I chose a shorter scenic country route early on to avoid traffic, and then a longer hilly country route in the afternoon to avoid more traffic. In the end, we all reach our destinations our own way. 

Today’s destination is a gem – the town Santillana Del Mar. It looks like what you imagine a medieval town would look like. So much so that it is the set for many movies. 

It is also a must see stop for tour busses, so the place was full of people. There were Germans following their tour guides through the town, French school children lined up for ice cream, and many older tourist couples exploring the streets. The attraction for us, however, was the El Convento San Agustin, now serving as a posh albergue. 15 Euros gets you a bunk in a room for two and an afternoon and evening to appreciate the gardens and gathering rooms. For 10 Euros more you can join the pilgrims dinner at 8 pm. For 4 Euros more, breakfast was served from 7-9 am. 

Jens, from Germany is waiting outside Albergue el Convento for its opening at 2 pm. This was the second albergue we shared with him. He was heading for Santiago at a pretty fast pace so we eventually lost contact. 

Nicolas is from Leon, France. He had two weeks away from work to walk so he started in Santander. The French Alps are his favourite place to hike.

Marius is a musician and teacher from Denmark. He sang for us some of his original songs in Danish. This was his last day on the Camino after starting in Irun. Last year he walked the Camino Frances and was met by a photographer near the beginning of his journey and again in Santiago, documenting before and after. 

Lucas, from Germany, was also on his last day. He was returning to school where he was studying to be a Special Education Teacher. He says the education system in Germany is in need of major changes. I wished him luck in his future career.

Sandra, originally from southern Germany, now living in Spain, exudes coolness. I’ve seen her a few days now, at albergues, rolling her own cigarettes, and singing “Ain’t no sunshine when she’s gone”. 

Malena is from Germany, but one of her parents is Spanish. She served as the translator for Ernesto at Albergue Cabana. She is walking until she has had enough.

Mark and I spent the day exploring, resting, and chatting with fellow pilgrims. There are a core of pilgrims, like us, heading for  Santiago, but many others walk for a week or two, joining and leaving us when they must. Europeans walk the Camino as a holiday; they walk to connect with nature; they walk to clear their heads after a tough semester at school, quitting a job, or ending a relationship. It’s a time out, not a destination for many. 

Steven from Belgium started in the bunk below mine the very first night in Irun. We have continued to run into him over the past thirteen days, and tonight we shared a final meal with him. It was sad to say good bye but also comforting to know that each of us continues to walk our own “way.”