Luis and I set out together this day, the day we would reach Spain. The pathway follows the coastline north to the mouth of Rio Minho where it turns inland to the town Caminha. From there, pilgrims can either follow the river inland and rejoin the central Camino, crossing into Spain in Tui, or hire a boat to ferry them across the river to Spain, where the coastal pathway continues to A Guarda.
Luis and I made it to Caminha, found the boat taxi office on the river, and paid our 5 Euros each. We were then shuttled in a very rough Isuzu Trooper with no ignition key, just a switch in its place. Little did we know they would shuttle us back to the mouth of the river for a 500 meter speed boat ride. I think this was their low tide departure spot. The operator stamped our Camino passports, we tied on keyhole PFDs, and then we climbed into the boat for a short ride. I felt like a refugee making a questionable water crossing to a new land.
Alvaro
Alvaro greeted us on the landing beach in Spain. He is 90 years old. I presume he was just out for a walk, taking in the spectacle of pilgrim crossings.
At first glance, there didn’t appear to be any difference between Portugal and Spain. The same beautiful coastline, the same lush green hills, and very similar pathways in both. But the buildings in Spain gave away its wealth. In Portugal, red tile and concrete are the most plentiful construction materials while in Spain, cut stone is everywhere. The black and white cobblestone walkways of Portugual are no more. In Spain, large rectangular cut stone walkways lead the way.
Luca
Luca (pronounced Loosa), from Hungary, was on her first Camino. She had studied business but would like to return to university to study psychology. The mental health crisis affecting young people has motivated her to help. She was walking this Camino alone as a personal challenge. Unfortunately, she had just taken a rest day and was now behind the friends she had made. Now she had to start over making friends or catch up. She walked and talked with Luis and I for an hour or so, but sent us on as our pace was faster than hers.
Much to our surprise, Nearess and her friend Carolen, also from Mendocino, California, ended up ahead of us. They saw the sign that directed them to the boat crossing, the one we missed. We caught up to them 5 km before our planned stop for the night at Albergue da Estrela in Viladesuso.
Carolen
Carolen was a Chef with her own restaurant who, at 50, changed careers to become a high school Nutrition and Hospitality teacher. She finds it very satisfying working with young people, helping them build confidence through the social experience of cooking and breaking bread with others.
This was a long day, 36.6 km.