I was freaked out by the number of pilgrims on the coastal route, so I got out early that morning, walking back to the coast in the dark. I had an albergue in mind for the night that had a waterfront location. Hopefully my early start would put me at the front of the line. The trail alternated between roads and boardwalks with beautiful public beaches all along. I was the first to reach my desired albergue, two hours before it opened. Not being one to sit and relax, I kept going.
I met and chatted with three couples from Woodstock and Stratford, Ontario, close to where I grew up in Kitchener, Ontario. They were walking the Camino in pieces with the help of a service that dropped them off, picked them up, supplied them with lunch, and shuttled their gear from one nice accommodation to the next. Good for them I say. Hike your own hike. Unfortunately, my camera settings got bumped and their portraits were blurry.
I had called ahead to Albergue Santiago da Costa in Apulia and secured a bed. This private albergue is operated by a very industrious young couple. The government of Portugal had made the call 10 years earlier to encourage people along the coast to provide infrastructure for a growing number of pilgrims. They were operating her family’s restaurant on the main floor and opening the second and third floors to pilgrims.
Rob
Rob, from Belgium, was at the albergue before me. I met him on the back patio, me doing my laundry and him smoking and reading. This was day three for Rob. He was taking it easy and walking no more than 25 km a day. He stopped frequently to have a beer at the little bars along the way.
Rob retired just two weeks prior to this date. He was a welder. At 65, he was set on enjoying his new found freedom. He and I ate at the restaurant below the albergue that night, enjoying a double portion of bacalao (cod), vino verde (green wine), and many laughs. I wouldn’t see Rob again until my return to Santiago upon completing my second Camino, the English Camino. He was just finishing his first.
I walked 36.1 km this day.