Alejandro and Isabelle operate the Gite Maison de Pelerins in Aire-sur-l’Adour. They have walked many Caminos themselves, and continue to walk in the off-season. They are friendly, helpful, and exude the spirit of the Chemin.
Boromna is from Belgium but is living in Paris. She is a holistic therapist on her fifth section-hike of the Chemin, getting ever closer to Santiago de Compostela.
This morning we picked up sandwiches at a patisserie on the way out of Aires-sur-l’Adour as there were no restaurants ahead for lunch. The day started with a light misting rain which confirmed our plan to avoid trail. We were able to cut 2.5 km off our morning by walking roads, stopping in Miramont-Sensaco, hoping for a drink and shelter from the now steady rain. The bar we entered was attached to an artisanal bakery – perfect! We watched the baker put croissants and chocolatines into the wood fired oven, and 15 minutes later, we were eating them with coffee.
Jean-Pierre is a baker in Mirarmont-Sensacq. We took refuge in a bar adjoining the bakery to escape the rain. Another pelerin encouraged us to come see the baker at work. He was just putting croissants and chocolatines into the old wood fired oven. 15 minutes later we were eating them.
When we exited the bar to continue our 30 km day, the rain had stopped. The roads continued as did a short cut that saved us another 2 km. But all good things come to an end. The next step was on trail and it was unavoidable. One km of slippery mud! The trail was so well worn and muddy that at times we we were walking with our legs spread, straddling the groove of a trail, trying to stay upright. Our new shoes don’t look so new anymore. We reached the end of that trail, sat at a closed bar picnic table and ate our lunch. We had easy road walking for the rest of the way.
For only the second time, we didn’t reserve a Gite. The communal gite we ended up at in Arzaco-Arraziguet had 90 beds in rooms of four. When we arrived she had room but wasn’t sure we could get dinner. A phone call with the cook ensued, full lots of expression, but in the end, we got a meal. From here on, we’ll be sure to book ahead.
My daughter asked me what was for supper this afternoon in a WhatsApp message. We made our best predictions – purée soup, some kind of lentil dish, and chocolate mousse. Boy were we wrong. We were served a shredded carrot salad, rice, and a pork and vegetable sauce. For dessert we had yogurt. It was a pleasant change.
We sat at a table with our dwindling group of friends. Many have left, others jumped ahead because of timing. The other table was made up of mostly women that we had not met before. For those of us still travelling together, the laughter and conversation make it seem like we’ve known each other for a long time, not just weeks. It truly is a community out here.