We are now in an area known as the Aubrac, meaning high place. It is a plateau encompassing an ancient lava flow. There is little shelter from the ever present wind and very few trees. Erratic boulders litter the area. It is lush with grasses and has been used as pastureland for centuries evidenced by the stone fences. They even have their own breed of cattle in the region.
Helle is from Denmark. She has walked many Caminos with her children, but this time she is alone. She only chose this route, Chemin Le Puy, two weeks earlier but is planning on walking to Santiago de Compostela. Her plan was to sleep in her tent, but her pack weight was uncomfortable. She sent 3 kilos of gear home just the day before.
It is harsh here but beautiful. I imagine winter could be a challenge. For us, the weather was agreeable, 10C or so, sunny, with a constant breeze to keep us from overheating. The town where we are staying, Nasbinals, stands in contrast to the wide open landscape. The town is located in a shallow valley, tightly packed with three story buildings. My guess is the plan was to create wind breaks with buildings.
Tonight we are staying at Gite d’etape Le Sorbier, a three story building on the Main Street with 17 beds. We were lucky enough to get a room with three beds. We had dinner at one of only two restaurants in town. Without a reservation, they took us only if we promised to be done in one hour. We were. We opted for the chicken confit with fries instead of aligot for the second night in a row. Frog legs were on the menu but I chickened out. It was the second time today I regretted my decision. I hesitated and walked past an open Boulangerie first thing this morning where I thought of buying bread for the day. We could have used it as we passed only one open snack bar in 32 km.
My goal from here on is to hesitate less. After all, when will I be able to do this again?