Between the two Marks and I, we are using two apps, one website, and two guidebooks to make our way. Actually we are down to one guidebook. Mark K bought the first, the Miam Miam Dodo guide, in Le Puy on a recommendation. By now we’ve seen that all the ‘cool kids’ are using the Michelin guide, so Mark K grabbed one. No one source of information lists all the accommodations so it is good to cross reference. Judging by the success we’ve had with accommodations, our method is working.
Ivan is from France. We have seen and greeted him everyday so far. This is his first Chemin. He said that a trip to Canada is next on his list.
Christian is from Colmar, France, a town in the Alsace region I have visited. My ancestors came from that region hundreds of years earlier. Christian is a retired mechanic, enjoying his Chemin. We would continue to see Christian for the next three weeks.
Jacqueline and Francoise are sisters from France, walking part of the Chemin together. One of them has adult children living in Montreal, Canada.
The Michelin guide breaks the Chemin de Le Puy into 32 stages, making an effort to balance distances, elevation difficulties, and accommodation availability. It suggested just 16 km for us today and we took its advice. We are in Saint Chely D’Aubrac, a tiny village just west and 500 m lower than the highest point of the Aubrac, 1320 m, that we crossed this morning. The day was beautiful and warmish, but the strong winds on the Aubrac chilled us. As soon as we started to descend the winds decreased, the temperature rose, and signs of spring were everywhere. Pussy willows, crocuses, and many tiny forest flowers are now blooming. We picked up ham and cheese sandwiches at the boulangerie on the way out of town this morning and had a picnic lunch with friends.
Victor is from Paris, France. He was granted a generous leave from work to walk the Chemin to Santiago de Compostela. He sleeps in later than most pilgrims but always catches up to friends through the day. He reached Santiago on May 27, with a group of friends that bonded early on journey.
Mathilde is from Brittany, France. Today is her birthday! She is a nurse who bonded with a group pilgrims early on in this journey. She walked with them to Conques, France, where she returned home.
It felt funny watching new friends push on as we stayed for the night. I’m sure we’ll catch up to many of them again. Staying put, though, does have its advantages. Our accommodation, Gite L’Aparte, has only one other couple staying tonight. We have a room for five to ourselves. For dinner we made a reservation at Cafe Tabac de la Mairie, the bar we sat at with friends this afternoon. We sat inside to stay warm tonight and got to experience an authentic French bar. Many of the patrons had been there all day (it is Sunday), and were well hydrated. My wife Kelly asked me today if I’d seen Steak et Frites (fries) on a menu yet and we hadn’t – until tonight. The young waitress suggested Cote de Boeuf, a dish that serves three: salad, bread, a huge platter of fries, and 1 kg of local Aubrac beef. Let’s just say we weren’t able to eat the bread.
With bellies full, we snapped a selfy in front of the bar and headed to the Gite for a good sleep.