Today we entered our third of four regions in Spain. Basque was culturally unique and physically challenging. Cantabria had many beautiful beach towns and hard paved surfaces. Asturias has snow covered peaks, beautiful coastal villages, and so far, more forgiving walking surfaces.
Esperanza (which means hope), was a friendly server at Jijonenca where she made me a refreshing smoothie. She said this town, Unquera, is not as pretty as many of the coastal villages, but many people from Madrid spend their summers here.
Tonight Mark, our three American friends – Dudley, Richard, and Sarah, and I are at a cosy little albergue in Pendueles, called Albergue Aves de Paso. Every albergue is different but this one really stands out. It is small with room for only 12 pilgrims. It is Anna’s home. Anna, from Holland, lost her husband to a heart attack a few years ago. She was desperate to find meaning and happiness again. She walked a Camino and was happy, but found when she returned home to her work, the happiness faded. Two years ago she googled “albergues for sale on the Camino”, found this one. She bought it, fixed it up, and started welcoming pilgrims.
One year ago a Belgium pilgrim, Sebastian, came to stay a night. He is now Anna’s partner. The Camino brought back meaning, happiness, and love to her. She says buying the albergue was the best decision in her life. Every night when pilgrims stay, Anna and Sebastian prepare a meal and sit to eat with the pilgrims. Tonight I felt humble and fortunate to be part of this experience.
This is Anna, the owner of the Aves de Paso Albergue in Pendueles, and her cat Coco. The name of the Albergue means birds flying past. She spruced up the Albergue, made it cozy, and welcomes pilgrims from March until October.
Esther is from the Netherlands. She had walked five Caminos, the Camino Frances twice, and says, “Every time is a new experience, even on the same route.” Esther was warm and friendly with all, befriending and guiding first time pilgrims. She hopes to take her granddaughter on a Camino next year. She reminds me of my late Grandma Lily, one of my favourite people.
Gerdy is from Holland and was on her second Camino. Unfortunately, a knee issue cut her Camino short.
Theresa and Moritz are from Germany. Theresa walked the Camino Frances and wanted to do another, but work wouldn’t allow the time. Work wasn’t fulfilling so she quit, asked Moritz to join her, and he said yes.
Alexandra is from Switzerland and previously walked the Portuguese Camino. She was working as an Engineer, setting up business processes, but was feeling unfulfilled. After her first Camino, she went back to school and is now teaching special needs students. Her passion is infectious. I’m sure students gravitate to her.