As happens on many long trails, people start out as individuals and end up travelling in a group or “trail family” due to similar paces, similar goals, or just always running into each other. In our case, let’s call it “Famille de Chemin.” The two Marks and I, “Les Trois Canadiens”, have been welcomed into a group of seven French pelerins walking and staying together. They are amused by our quick pace, military like precision with walking sticks, and our affection for Coca Cola Zero (known here as as Coca Zero). All joking aside, they greet us enthusiastically every time we meet and are all patient with our poor French skills.
Today was arguably our toughest day so far: 32.2 kms, 35500 steps, 165 flights of stairs. We left Espalion at 7:30 am after a quick stop at a boulangerie to buy sandwiches for lunch. After an hour of flat walking we started our first climb. Even with switchbacks, I was huffing and puffing. We did reach the top only to climb again. We stopped for Coca Zeros with the “Famille de Chemin” in a fairy tale town, Estaing; stopped again for a pique-nique along a river; then started the mother of all climbs. By this time, the afternoon sun was hot and we were tired. After two lengthy rest breaks, we did reach the top with 8 more km to our destination. We arrived at 4 pm.
Didier is from France and was walking his first Chemin for a cause. He was raising money for Cystic Fibrosis research. His pack was heavy, but he walked with purpose.
Tonight we are in Golinhac, a picturesque hamlet perched atop a hill with a killer view. There is of course a church, several gites, one restaurant, and one convenience store. Tonight we joined the “Famille De Chemin” for dinner at the restaurant. The menu of the day costs 17 euros, and consists of salad with cold pieces of tortierre, chicken or sausage with pasta or rice, and chocoate cheese cake. Pierre, the one we have unofficially named the leader of the famille, leaned over to me at the end of the meal and said, “This place is not good.” He went on to explain that the portions were not big enough considering the pelerin clientele. He had a point, but we have been stuffed so many times in the last few days that a normal portion was a treat. Just last night I ordered a salad at a taco restaurant and ended up with salad topped with two cooked hamburger patties, two fried eggs, and a pita. We laughed, and then I ate it all. We are burning about 2500 extra calories a day so we can afford to eat.
Pierre is from Lyon, France, about one hour from our starting point in Le Puy. This is his first Chemin and he has made many friends.
Tomorrow will only be 20 km and we will arrive at an Abbey in Conques. Like Mark D says, “Everyday is like Christmas here.”