The region of Asturias continues to impress us. We have been walking west along the coast between rugged ridges topped with lush green vegetation and a row of 1000 m+ mountains. You really could surf and ski the same day in Asturias.
On both sides of the small gravel coastal roads are pastures enclosed with electric fencing. Cows, sheep, goats, and horses are dispersed throughout the meadows. You can’t always see the livestock but you can hear them because they all wear bells. Each type of animal seems to wear a different size of bell so the music created is very complex.
Dewi is from Wales and started walking in Santander. He just finished a teaching term in the UK and is heading for California to work at a summer camp on Lake Tahoe after his Camino. In the fall he will tour South and Central America, before taking on a more permanent teaching position.
Fortunately, we rarely need to climb like we did in Basque country. Instead we follow gravel roads the weave back and forth along the coast. We’ve passed holes in the cliffs that, when the tide and waves coordinate, send water shooting straight up. Even without the water spouts, the sound of air being forced through the caves is eerie. Locals refer to it as the sound of dragons. When walking through Nuevas this afternoon I noticed two buildings depicting dragons: a hotel had a stone relief of two dragons fighting, and the church had knight on horseback slaying a dragon. I’ll need to investigate further.
Today we walked only 19 km, a welcomed shorter day. The Albergue La Llosa de Cosme in Pineres de Prai where we planned to stay is not close to any restaurants so we had to find food that was easily prepared in a limited kitchen for dinner. There just happened to be a farmers market in Nueva today so we bought a large chicken empanada and some Kas Limon sodas.
Tess is from Ottawa. She has done 16 Caminos. I met her walking into the town of Nueva where we were both buying food for dinner. She’s happiest walking shorter days and staying in hotels. It’s good to “hike your own hike”.
I’m finally over the worst of my cold, and my knees are back to normal. I’ve had only three small blisters that have barely been an issue. I’m feeling strong, and Mark and I have found our groove. We were in a group of people all needing to pull 30 km days to meet other commitments. This morning we slept in until 7:30, and let the speedy crew go. We had a leisurely walk and have met people travelling at a different pace. Mark and I figured out when we should be finished, allowed for a couple more zero days, and booked our flights home.
The albergue is like a ‘tiny house’, six beds in a little cottage in the front yard of a house. For 12 euros each, they even washed and dried our laundry. We had an enjoyable evening in the garden chatting with the four other pilgrims, sharing our chocolate and cookies.
Ivan is from Germany. He started his Camino in Bilbao, but tomorrow is his last day. He has walked many times on ‘The Way’ in Germany, Switzerland, and France. He keeps getting closer to Santiago.